How to be fabulous with Charlotte Dallison.
Out with the old and in with the vintage. Each week I chat to a fabulous expert guest on their vintage wardrobe and audit to inspire you to embrace more secondhand style
Hello, everyone, welcome back to another episode of the heart of your fabulous podcast.
So sorry this is my second or third week in a row recording an intro with a terrible cold.
I just can't seem to kick it. I don't know why I usually I get sick. Anyway. It heads to the husk of my voice one hopes. This week I have a great guest His name is Michael Phillips and he is the heart behind twits vintage, an online vintage shop specialising in women's wear spanning the 20th century. Michael hails from Youngstown, Ohio, and after he left home, he graduated with a fashion design degree from Kent State University before moving to New York City. The pandemic then took him to Orlando went towards vintage became something more than just a twinkle in his eye. As for that enticing business name, it was inspired by his grandmother's nickname, toots vintage represents more than just admiration for vintage and antiques and reimagines everyone as a princess regardless of their gender. Another thing when we recorded this episode, there was actually a hurricane happening in Orlando.
So for Michael, he persevered and we got the interview but a couple of glitches here and there, so just bear with us. Thanks so much.
Hello, Michael, how are you? I'm as great as you can be during a hurricane and tropical storm. I know. Oh my God, because where are you exactly in Florida? I'm in Orlando, Florida, right. So I live in Cinderella's castle. Walt Disney World.
Yes, fishing. So we are what is it called an Australia they're called? Is it a monsoon? Or no, it's I don't know. Like I was actually working on this thing yesterday. Like I'm doing a corporate writing job. I'm a freelance writer by trade. But I was like doing this thing on bushfires. I feel like that is our biggest problem in terms of weather. But yeah, I think monsoons more like Asian countries. I don't know how like, basically, we've been in La Nina. I can't pronounce that properly for like three years. So yeah, climate change, babe.
I know. And it's so weird to think because there's so many you know, it's happening everywhere. But yes, I don't know living obviously, in America. I'm just like, thinking about myself thinking about what's happening here. But well, I really think you should prioritise yourself considering you're literally in the middle of a hurricane right now. But I'm here to talk with you. Yeah, you're headed to a vintage vintage fashion podcast. Perfect. What else would you do? Yeah. Okay.
Spirits. Hi. Yes, exactly. So the way we usually start this podcast, rather than talking about extreme weather events, and actually, you know, it's kind of tied in, in the sense that we're like, pro sustainability here, clearly. But before we get into that, let's talk about style. And I'd love to hear about you and your background where you're from, you're obviously in Orlando now. And you have Toots vintage NAB. But what led you to this place? Yes. Well, much like a hurricane. No, not to compare my life to a horrible natural disaster. But
it's yeah, it's not where I saw myself necessarily. It's not like where I saw
my life plan go. But I moved to New York City after graduating from college. I went to Kent State University in Ohio. So I'm born and raised a Midwestern Midwestern boys. So
that's where I sort of grew up for, what 21 years of my life and then moved to New York, right after that, to just have that experience. That's where I always wanted to be so
I lived in New York for six years, just under six years, and then the pandemic happened
and brought me to Orlando because of my boy
Friend, and we have been dating. Yeah, for a long time. Before that he was in New York and then followed his childhood dream of working at Universal Studios, Orlando, and amazing. Yeah, so the pandemic, sort of, much like other people, you know, shifted things in priorities. And so I was at a place in my life in my career where it made sense to make that move. So
I did and I started Toots vintage, in 2020. And
it's, yeah, it's been based in Orlando, but I sort of kept it this sort of where it is like, where is he like, where is Tuts? Like, I've wanted it to feel sort of neither here nor there. Like, it feels like a big city maybe or it feels like it's still that New York, five, and I go back to New York enough where I still get a taste of that. But yeah, that's that's sort of what what took me to Orlando. Wow. And were you selling vintage already, when you were in New York? I'm not really. So in New York. I don't know if I just said but my background, I studied fashion design. So I moved to New York and was working some freelance jobs in design, and ended up at a company called Ron tre yas. And that the designer Aaron dadey, she had just started that company in 2018. And so I was there from inception for like, I think two collections of into 2019.
And that she was all about sustainability, and
you know, repurposing vintage and making it new. And so I found myself working all these freelance jobs just sort of being like, I, I cannot participate in this, you know, fashion cycle of just producing to produce, the companies I was working for, were just sort of, you know, department store companies that were cranking out like 50,000 units of like, some style that we knocked off from, you know, another company. And so I was just really disheartened by that.
Simultaneous simultaneously, I was working at a store in New York called beacons closet, which is just beacons.
I'm paid. Yeah. I'm Perry Street. I mean, it's, it's Hey, it's world renowned. Yeah, yes, yeah, I was at the store in Greenpoint. And I was there for about two and a half years. So
you know, in New York, you have to work many jobs, you have to be able to afford that New York City rent. So
I was I was,
you know, in a resale environment. And so I was seeing all of this, and really, you know, passionate about this circularity. And
I wanted to make it a point to, you know, if I'm going to work in design, I want it to be in design that is sustainable. And so that's where I found Aaron, and Ron triage, and
I was her design assistant. And so I was sourcing all the vintage. And I was, you know, helping with some of the design. But really, I was obsessed with finding the pieces, we would create, you know, a style, and we would get orders for that style, and it would be alright, now we have defined pieces, you know, to create this
prairie dress that's compromising, you know, it's it's three different dresses that are pretty dresses from the 70s. So where do we find that? And that was my job. And so
that really helped when I started today, and 2020.
Sort of, with the wholesaling and the connections that I made
throughout the country. It's really interesting. It sort of makes sense. It's like, you were kind of naturally feeling like, not interested in the kind of typical fashion industry, like realities. And you will also be like, naturally sort of pulled towards vintage just by default. It sort of sounds. Yeah, yeah. It was sort of to be but also a conscious choice. Yeah. Yeah. And I like at beacons. It was just around every day, like, I think I was there, you know, half of the week. And so I would just see these pieces come in from you know, there'd be antique pieces, 1930s pieces,
designer pieces, fast fashion and so I
I got an understanding of what is not only desirable, but what is valuable. And so
I kind of got a sense of
at all these different price tiers and categories of women's wear menswear, fast fashion, vintage, like, what are people buying? And what is valuable.
And then, when I started toots, I initially really started
with that in mind, like, why, why would I buy this, like, what is the value of this,
I would sort of just stockpile vintage,
that I considered valuable with this mindset of being a buyer for like a resale store. And then it sort of developed into, okay, like you actually are more passionate about, you know, these pieces, or you are more passionate about this decade, and not so much. Just, you know, there's plenty of value around always, you know, when I'm shopping, I see things that are really desirable pieces, but now I buy with such a clear, I have like, who is my customer? And like, what does she want? Is it you know, is it this piece, like does this make sense for my brand.
And that definitely developed over time and, and has developed
all of those experiences sort of informed and formed this, I love that. And I think it's often anyone who sells vintage, there's often sort of a story like I was doing this, I didn't want to do that anymore. And then I found myself doing this, but it sounds like you're quite strategic. But I think that's sort of cool. Because at the same time, my like, interpretation of your brand is that it's very dreamy, and like, so it's kind of interesting to hear that you are so strategic behind the scenes, but at the same time, it's got so much kind of flow. Yeah, literal sense. But also just like your branding. I've I feel that. Yeah. I'd love to chat to about your, your own style, Michael. Because you went from Ohio to New York. Yeah. Orlando, quite extreme
cities. And like, when did you start wearing vintage? And what about now? Yeah.
I really think I first discovered vintage and high school.
I before that was just sort of wearing very typical like Ohio,
middle school, high school clothing, which at the time, this was what?
The mid to late aughts. So it was like, mall brands, it was all about like Hollister, and
you know, American Eagle and Abercrombie and Fitch. And if you weren't like wearing those brands, like you were nothing and so
yeah, I was definitely a part of that I just sort of wanted to fit in and like fly under the radar for a bit. But then it wasn't until high school that I sort of developed a sense of like, personal style. And it still involved mall brands, because that was what was accessible to me.
And at that time, my influences weren't we're not very I don't even know what my influences were at the time. It was just like trying to survive high school, you know, sort of, yeah, I wanted to experiment Yeah, with definitely more like flamboyant pieces and things that were like a little bit more personal to me. But that meant like a white, you know, suit jacket from Express or like a bow tie or like something. It was definitely my style was like really preppy at that time.
And then I discovered vintage through my friend Ashley. Because her her like financial situation was that she really had to shop secondhand
to survive. And so my first experience with that was going to a store in Youngstown, Ohio, which sadly doesn't exist anymore, but
in hindsight, there was probably like the most incredible things there that I wished I snagged
at that time, like thinking back but I bought a cardigan and like something but that sort of started the journey. It was like I remember it was like a blue acrylic like 80s cardigan, it was disgusting, but that sort of started my journey.
When I moved to New York and you know when I went to college and all that it was
a it was more about expression at that point. And so it was like finding pieces to fit, you know, okay, we're going clubbing tonight like we're you're going to fit the theme and like Let's go Let's go shopping.
gonna find something to like, fit that theme and
let's Yeah, like let's Let's shop to express ourselves. And that definitely happened once I graduated and, and went to college and could sort of think more freely on my own.
Yeah, and then by the time I was living in New York for a few years that was, you know, full secondhand, like, I think the only things today that even still buy new or our underwear and and socks and some shoes sometimes but
I really am in so passionate about just like using what you have and I've kept some of the same pieces that I've had since I first started vintage shopping and
yeah, so now personal style is very practical, but tuts allows me to really express myself and all of the ways that I want so day to day it's it's as you see, just like a white tank top some gold you know, jewellery, accessories, but it's it's super practical day to day but yeah,
well that's the reality when you're like dealing in vintage because I had a vintage shop before this. Like you have to be quite practical because you're sort of like, quite physical.
Yeah, dealing with stuff. Yeah, you need things with lots of pockets. It's great that cargo pockets are like super end because like you need a cargo van to put everything in so I don't think I've ever worn cargo pants I probably would probably make my life easier. In fact, I did wear them like at Intermediate School which is I'm from New Zealand it's like the equivalent of middle school. Oh yeah. I Cargo Pant phase which was very Daggy did not suit me. Anyway. I love sort of you and like chic vintage cargo pants like dealing with these beautiful dresses all day. Yes, I have these like satin and Jamila Mr. cargo pants. So they are gorgeous. Those are my go twos. Yeah, they're super, super great, very chic. Um, so let's talk about toots. Because it was, you said that the name was inspired by your grandma. Is that correct? Yes. So her nickname with her sisters and her brother is Tuts. So
she has two other sisters and a brother.
The sisters nicknames are Sandy sis. And she's Tuts. So
my Her real name is Barb Barbara, I should say. And she, as a kid was sort of like everything that I was obsessed with, like in a woman and like femininity, and she was like, always done up and like her hair was always done her nails always like fresh manicure. She
really like inspired me as a kid and would really nurture my like passion for fashion. And
we would go shopping together like at the mall or antiquing. And she was really my introduction to a lot of, of what I do now. And so when I started
my company and when I was like, thinking about names, it just, it really came naturally. It was like, I have to do something that's personal. And it needs to be like something about women in my life. And so there were like, names. I was tossing up like something about my mom or something about my grandma and so I ended up with tuts and I love it. It's sort of like a cutesy Yeah, like vintage thing. Yeah, like hater yet, you know, like, it's, well, it's like, it's not a phrase. It's like ever been used in Australia? I don't think but it's very American. Like we kind of know what Toots means, like from Phil Yeah, stuff. So it's yeah, it's still like, understandable. It kind of makes it even more American, which is fabulous. Yeah, I love it. And I love that so much to your grandmother. She's fabulous, too. I definitely plan on she's still she's still around. She's still like doing her thing. She's a real estate agent and she will work until you until she can Yeah, she's, she's amazing. And I would love to like sometime do something with turrets and like, imagery with her and
so that's that's in the works, so stay tuned. Oh, I can't wait. Yeah, definitely want to see her. I
Love. Yeah. Women of that generation. And they're all called Barbara as well, like my great aunt. Yeah. Brett and my grandma. It's called Joan. And then my ex boyfriends. Grandma was called Barbara Joan. It's like there were two names.
Oh my God, that's fun. Yeah, cuz my mom's name is Kelly. But her middle name is Joe. And so like as a kid, she was Kelly Jo. Oh, Kelly, just to name. Yeah. Sweet. I love the name Kelly as well. And so back to your style, and kind of your vintage shopping journey. Do you have a most memorable vintage clothing purchase? Wow.
Well, when I was working at beacons closet, we saw so many incredible pieces come in.
So for those of you listeners that don't know beacons closet, it's just sort of buy sell trade store.
I think that's pretty self explanatory. You know, you bring in your pieces. The time that I was working there, I think it's changed a bit. Now. I think the pandemic is like put a lot of people you know, on the internet, understandably and so they're selling their wares online. But
when I was there, you were getting like, stylists coming in and you were getting like influencers bringing pieces that they just were gifted, or you were getting other vintage stores that were just selling things that didn't sell for them. And so, being in New York City, you're seeing like all of these amazing things all the time every day. And so
I think that some of my favourite pieces that I got, well, the first thing that comes to my mind is I have a dress from owl bear Elbaz is first collection with lon Vaughn.
And it has the tag on it still. And it's from I think two. Yeah, it's from like 2001 or something.
It is, I think five layers of silk tool. It's very tough. Like it's a very tough dress.
It's amazing. It's it's beautiful. And it was like priced at like $120
Wow. And yeah, bargain. bargain and so many stories like that where there was like, I mean Versace pieces, Balenciaga pieces, like some very iconic like, fashion moments. And actually, I have a part from totes vintage. I have like a whole archival collection of Helmut Lang pieces, which I started from working in the beacons closet. And so I think I have about like, 250 pieces. God, and it's stuff. Yeah, that initially started because of my have a jacket that I got to beacons closet. And then I just started finding it online and racking it up. And so they're actually right next to me, I have some Tupperware that they're all in right now but.
So many, I mean, and then shopping for Tut's I've seen, you know, some really, really beautiful, amazing things. I sourced my pieces throughout the country. A lot of them come from the Midwest when I go see my family. And so I've I've bought some really beautiful like slip dresses, some really beautiful.
I don't know just just things that are really important to me or that I think are really beautiful.
And since living in Florida, I've sort of been dabbling more into the 90s. Like, y2k aesthetic. And honestly, I found some pieces that I think are equally as beautiful and
yeah,
there's beauty over amazing. Yes, there's beauty everywhere. I sort of think with y2k like probably that was the last hurrah of like really good quality. Yeah, in the sense that I sort of have noticed like pieces Yeah, probably up to like the recession. They were still being made really well. So there's still I totally agree ship. That's obviously a generalisation. But I think yeah, so it's, you can see that like when you're looking at pieces, or there's sort of like a design intention. Like there's something with like, We're doing this because it's we're making a statement whether it's like you know, this is a clubbing dress or this is a formal dress like you understand like, this has a design like an idea and
Yeah, I totally agree like, recession era like everything after that. It's like, okay, we're just gonna like, turn out stuff. Yes. Well, I think the market obviously changed. And you know, it's nobody's fault, but some people's fault, but not really the average person.
Like hurricanes, recessions, pandemics. glamorous. We're getting into it. Yeah. Anyway, well, it sounds like you have loads of beautiful, amazing vintage finds, like memorable finds. And it's so exciting to hear you have this collection. Like, I wonder what you'll do with that one day? I just feel like, there's so much you could do so yeah. Well, I have like a friends. Do you know, James Floria, the vintage brand.
So they're New York base, and actually, definitely a part of my my vintage journey. But Brandon and Colin, very good, dear friends of mine. But they've done a few collaborations with other New York, you know, vintage dealers, and I sort of, I've pitched the idea to them and would love to do a Helmut Lang specific collaboration, because they definitely have like the customer for it. And I think it would just be like a fun, I used to collect a lot of Helmut Lang from them. And so it would just be the sort of like, beautiful, full circle, like,
collaboration. But yeah, so stay tuned.
Yes, yeah, I'll put them in the show notes as well, so other people can look them up.
So let's talk about gender as well. Because one thing you said your bio was, like, you know, sort of glamour, regardless of gender. And you obviously, like, Model A lot of the clothes on your Instagram. So, yeah, has that just always been a part of like, how you've decided to kind of go about this brand? Like, talk to me about that? Yeah, um, I think it's super, like, interesting, these, you know, important conversations about gender that are obviously happening and many arenas, but to like, to be quite honest, I never really thought about it, until I started getting like, asked about it. And that's sort of, sort of happening, like in New York and living there. Like, you know, obviously, like, we all want to be, we're not we, not everybody, but most everybody wants to be inclusive, and, and polite, and like care, we, you know, we care about people.
And so, those conversations were happening. And I just for me, it was like, yeah, some days I want to wear a dress, and some days, I want to go to a party. And I think that the most beautiful thing that I could put on is a dress. And it's not because I considered myself like, more feminine, or
I mean, I do but I just never really thought about it. But then when I started tux, and I realised like,
I actually need to consider that because my, my sort of, you know, flaws a doll, like just being sort of
whatever about it isn't really, that's not helpful to a lot of people that could maybe see me and like, actually be really inspired or
I don't know, see themselves in me more than I was just selfishly like dressing up.
And so I've really started to embrace the sort of like, I am, I identify as, like, he him pronouns, like a boy, like, that's totally fine.
That's, like, good with me, but
I can understand where, you know, that isn't understandable to everyone and like,
I don't know, I it's something that I like, always continue to deal with, but like,
I am comfortable in this like space of feminine sometimes, and like wearing a dress and not thinking about it. But I understand now that that is a responsibility that I have, especially for my, you know, clients and customers that are non binary or trans or, you know, more feminine or not. And so, for me now, it's sort of having these conversations and addressing is important. And so
initially, it started out
just out of necessity, I was my model because that's what the pandemic allowed, you know,
you you want to start a business in 2020. Okay, well, you have you and yourself
and your laptop. Yeah, literally. And so I like I was just saying like, I always was comfortable in sort of like, wearing these pieces, you know if they fit or whatever. And so