Overcome the fear and unlock the secrets to stunning blondes with me, as I share my once-held trepidations and the journey to mastering platinum lightening and toning. Say goodbye to the nightmares of "hot roots" and hello to the rise of "syrup blonde," a trend that's making waves in the blonding realm. With cutting-edge products and techniques at our fingertips, transforming our clients into bombshell blondes while preserving those precious locks has never been more attainable. Join the conversation, where your engagement enriches our stylist community and your questions lead the way to weekly bursts of hair wisdom.
My favorite products: https://www.danisekeilitz.com/euforaproducts
My Spackle: Fortifi - Keratin Strengthening Treatment Protein-rich restructuring solution for weak, brittle and damaged hair. The weightless formula increases strength and elasticity.
OXIDATIVE SERVICE BOND PROTECTION SYSTEM There is a chemical reaction that occurs during any oxidative service that can cause damage to disulfide bonds in the hair.
The Eufora PROTREATMENT colorELIXIR system is a bond protection and restorative system blended with NAOPLEX Technology, a proprietary complex of supercharged natural antioxidants and vegetable proteins. The colorELIXIR system protects bonds during the oxidative process of chemical service, prevents damage caused by free radicals, and restores and repairs the hair structure after any oxidative service.
Lighteners: ALOELITE BLUE BLEACHING POWDER Achieve up to 7 levels of lift with this dust-free powder lightener. It can be used with foils or when performing global lightening services.
ALOELITE 9-LEVEL BLUE LIGHTENER Achieve up to 9 levels of ultra-lightening lift when used with or without foils. Ideal for guests with a lower-level base wanting platinum results in one application.
ALOELITE CREAM LIGHTENER Achieve up to 6 levels of evenly controlled lift with this creamy lightener. Ideal for guests with a lighter base or fine hair. Designed for any lightening technique with stay-put performance and application ease.
Overcome the fear and unlock the secrets to stunning blondes with me, as I share my once-held trepidations and the journey to mastering platinum lightening and toning. Say goodbye to the nightmares of "hot roots" and hello to the rise of "syrup blonde," a trend that's making waves in the blonding realm. With cutting-edge products and techniques at our fingertips, transforming our clients into bombshell blondes while preserving those precious locks has never been more attainable. Join the conversation, where your engagement enriches our stylist community and your questions lead the way to weekly bursts of hair wisdom.
My favorite products: https://www.danisekeilitz.com/euforaproducts
My Spackle: Fortifi - Keratin Strengthening Treatment Protein-rich restructuring solution for weak, brittle and damaged hair. The weightless formula increases strength and elasticity.
OXIDATIVE SERVICE BOND PROTECTION SYSTEM There is a chemical reaction that occurs during any oxidative service that can cause damage to disulfide bonds in the hair.
The Eufora PROTREATMENT colorELIXIR system is a bond protection and restorative system blended with NAOPLEX Technology, a proprietary complex of supercharged natural antioxidants and vegetable proteins. The colorELIXIR system protects bonds during the oxidative process of chemical service, prevents damage caused by free radicals, and restores and repairs the hair structure after any oxidative service.
Lighteners: ALOELITE BLUE BLEACHING POWDER Achieve up to 7 levels of lift with this dust-free powder lightener. It can be used with foils or when performing global lightening services.
ALOELITE 9-LEVEL BLUE LIGHTENER Achieve up to 9 levels of ultra-lightening lift when used with or without foils. Ideal for guests with a lower-level base wanting platinum results in one application.
ALOELITE CREAM LIGHTENER Achieve up to 6 levels of evenly controlled lift with this creamy lightener. Ideal for guests with a lighter base or fine hair. Designed for any lightening technique with stay-put performance and application ease.
I used to be scared to death of platinum lightening and toning.
Speaker 1:
You know, putting the lightener on the scalp through the ends.
Speaker 1:
I used to be scared to death of that. You know why? Because I didn't trust the process and because the products I was using back then weren't very good for the hair. Luckily, we have all kinds of wonderful products to help us take our clients to level 12s if we wanted to right. Welcome to All About Hair, the go-to podcast for stylists, salon owners and anyone passionate about hair styling. Whether you're a seasoned stylist refining your skills or a curious listener looking to enhance your hair knowledge, we've got you covered. I'm your host, denise Kylitz, a former stylist and salon owner with four award-winning salons under my belt. With over 30 years of experience. I've dedicated myself to helping stylistic, sell and foundational hair cutting, color theory, client communication and more, enabling them to build six-figure careers they can be proud of. My mission is to uplift our industry by sharing valuable insights gathered along my journey. Get ready for enlightening discussions, captivating interviews and practical advice on marketing, sales and technical skills. This is the podcast all about hair. Hey, before we get started today, I wanted to remind you we have a weekly newsletter that you can go sign up for today. Go to Denise Kylitz spelledwithinnaacom and sign up there. Talks about hair-related stuff. My favorite style of the week a weekly nugget to get your weekends started. Just join our community. I would love to see you there. Today we're going to talk about all things blonding, because it's springtime and everybody wants to come out of that winter dullness and get their hair lightened, brightened, all the things right. At least I think it's springtime, I don't know. The weather keeps cycling back and forth. I just wish spring would make up its mind, put up a good fight, get rid of this winter. But anyway it's here. We've got to be ready for it. So I've got a confession to make. I used to be scared to death of platinum lightening and toning. You know, putting the lightener on the scalp through the ends. I used to be scared to death of that. You know why? Because I didn't trust the process and because the products I was using back then weren't very good for the hair. Luckily, we have all kinds of wonderful products to help us take our clients to level 12s if we wanted to. Right, with all the bond builders and different products like that. I'm not saying go to a level 12. Please don't do that. There are people out there who want that platinum lightning service. So let's just talk about a few different lightning services, and then we're going to talk about this new thing called syrup blonde. Yeah, what the heck is that right?
Speaker 1:
So our first thing we want to talk about is on scalp, platinum lightning and the toning process. This is the big one. This is when people come in and they say I want to be blonde. This is the one that I used to be scared to death of. I just do back to back foils instead and convince them it was better for them when in reality, I was just scared to death to do it. So don't do that. Learn how to do it, learn the right process, learn what, learn your products, and just remember that this all over platinum it does not have to mean it's damaging for the hair. There are so many products out there that they have oils in them, they have bond builders in them, they can lift up to nine levels and your hair actually feels healthier than before. Crazy, right. I'll put a link on some of my favorite products that do that, and I'm sure you have your favorite as well.
Speaker 1:
So how do you actually do a platinum blonde? Well, if you remember, in beauty school, you don't want to start at the roots of the hair. And do you know why? Because if you put lightener on the roots like you were doing a touch up, and then you put lightener on the midgeps to ends, first of all the heat from your scalp is going to make the lightener process faster and also the keratin bonds aren't completely built with that half inch from the scalp, if you don't know what that means. Your hair is made up of protein and keratin and it takes a bit for that keratin to harden and it takes about, I would say, about a half an inch from the scalp before that happens. That's why sometimes, not only with the heat of the scalp, but also the keratin bonds aren't formed, sometimes you get that hot roots, if you will. That's two reasons why that happens.
Speaker 1:
So when you're doing an all over blonde, you want to start about a half an inch from the scalp and you want to put your lightener really on the mid strands, not necessarily the ends depends on the integrity of their hair and it depends on the length of their hair. So you want to put it just in the mid strands and after you get that on there, then you can go back and do it on the roots and you might depending on how fast that's lifting or not fast that's lifting, you might have to do it in two different steps. You might have to do the mid strands, let that sit up to like 60 minutes until it's like a very pale yellow. And I'm not talking about the color of a banana, I'm talking about the inside of a banana. So when you say pale yellow shade, it really is like the lightest, lightest yellow you could see with the eye. Okay, that'll get you a true level 10 blonde. If you still have yellow in there, there is nothing that you can tone them with. That's going to be a level 10 blonde.
Speaker 1:
Do the mid strands to the ends, not through the ends, and the reason you don't want to do the ends when you're doing this is because the ends are very they're old, they need tenderloving care, so you might want to do those at the very end. So you got the mid strands done. You might have to shampoo that off and then go back, blow dry a little bit and then do the root part. Most people do the mid strands and then, while that's processing they'll go back through and do the roots. But guess what? What if your root area, that half inch regrowth starts developing a lot, lot faster because of the keratin bonds and because of the heat of the scalp, and then you have to rinse it all off and then redo the mid strands? So I would probably just do the mid strands first, rinse that off and then come back and do the root area and deal with the ends. That's just how I would probably do it.
Speaker 1:
And also, you want to make sure that you're putting hmm, we used to call it spackle, but something that is going to protect the hair. You want to spray that on and it could help. And if you have questions about that, reach out to me. I'll tell you what I mean by that. So your goal is to have an even palette from roots to the end. And what I mean by that even palette? You're hoping that that level of yellow is about the same inside of a banana yellow, that pale, pale yellow. And then you want to rinse that all off, shampoo it if you want to, and then you want to pick your toner after you see what your lightener has done.
Speaker 1:
Don't come up with your toner beforehand, because you don't know what you're dealing with. What if you have maybe the mid strands had old color on there and they still need? They still have that hint of yellow in there. You're going to need something. What's on the opposite of yellow on the color wheel, the violet. But what if it has a hint of the orange in there? You've got to add a little bit of blue. Now you won't know that until after you've lightened the hair, and if it needs a little bit of blue, it's not going to be a level 10 platinum blonde. I'm sorry that means you didn't get a light enough in the first place. If their hair can take it and they still want you want them to be that level 10 platinum you might have to go back in and redo the lightener before you tone.
Speaker 1:
Something that I like to do too is pre-tone before you tone, which means say you've got them all lightened up and you rinse them off. Then use a purple shampoo to pre-tone, get that hair ready and then you can put your toner on after you rinse that off. Actually works wonderfully because it helps to get all the little bit of yellow out of the hair so it doesn't mess with your toner, especially if you're doing vivids, because any amount of yellow left in the hair when you're doing vivids will tweak the color of the vivid color Made that mistake a few times in my life. Because yellow and if you put blue on and you want bright blue hair, you have yellow in there. Guess what You're going to have? Green, yeah, or some shade of aqua.
Speaker 1:
So it's all about the lightening, getting them light enough, and then always, always, make sure you're sending them home with some kind of purple shampoo and conditioner. The yellow will always come back. It's just that's what happens, because the toner is not permanent. The toner will wear off and then what they will start seeing is the oxidation underneath, which is the yellow. So if you can tell them, maybe every second or third shampoo, use that purple shampoo. And then, because they've just done all of this to their hair, you might want to make sure they're going home with a weekly mask, just so they can take good care of their hair at home. And then, of course, prebook them for their next appointment, because if they're wanting to stay platinum, if their hair grows out more than a half an inch, it becomes a two-step process. You just want to touch up that half an inch, remember the keratin. Half an inch, simple process, and then you could tone the rest because they're already blonde. Hope that makes sense. If not, please reach out, leave me a message. I'm all over the place. You know Instagram. You can DM me. It's just my first and last name D-A-N-I-S-E-K-E-I-L-I-T-Z, and if you're somebody who's afraid of blonde or have been in the past, let us know what has changed, what you do to get confidence behind the chair. All that good stuff.
Speaker 1:
Our second look for spring summer golden blonde. Yeah, I love it that the golden blonde is making a comeback because it's so easy to get golden blonde Right. I'm not talking Brassie blonde, I'm talking beautiful golden blonde. Think of some of the blondes that we saw in some of the awards show this last season. They're beautiful and you can still have face framing lighter pieces and then just tone them with a golden blonde toner. I don't know what line everybody uses, but it could have a little bit of violet in there because you don't want too much gold, you just want that hint of gold. I love it because I think the golden blondes add more life to the skin. Last season it was all about the ashy blondes and not everybody can pull off an ashy blonde successfully, not without changing all your makeup and everything like that. I mean you could do anything you want, but golden blondes a little bit more believable. You know me, I love beautiful, believable hair.
Speaker 1:
Our third look would be that intentional dimension. What do I mean by that? I mean, you know, balayage. I mean not really the stripes, it's not really like those ribbons of color, it just means that it looks real, it looks like natural hair. So if you have to paint it on, if you have to put some foils in there, it's just different techniques for every single look and you make it personal to their head. They can't get that at home. You know your clients can't get that intentional dimension at home. It's hard to do on yourself.
Speaker 1:
I would say you have those clients that they come in like twice a year for their balayage. Well, make sure they're coming in about every four to six weeks to make sure you're giving them toners on top of that. These are all ways to get your books busy. So when you look at your books a month in advance that you're not freaking out that you don't have anybody on your books, you have to teach and educate each guest that this is not a one-time situation, especially for blondes. Blondes are high maintenance, even brunettes these days. It's kind of high maintenance because if you're putting in a balayage they are going to oxidize brassi, so they have to have toners as well. But definitely blondes, you want to make sure that they are coming in for their toners and their conditioning treatments. Let's see. Now let's talk about what you've been waiting on.
Speaker 1:
I know the thing called syrup blonde. What the heck is syrup blonde? Well, it's really just another name. I love it when people make up names for colors and I just love it, right. But syrup blonde is just another name for that golden blonde. Think of maple syrup getting lighter and lighter at the end. So it's that amber color at the roots and then it's that golden balayage really, because it's really a traditional blonde balayage and it's just darker at the base. That's syrup amber color into like that sun-kissed effect around the face and on the ends. It's pretty simple, but it just sounds so delicious and it sounds so good.
Speaker 1:
That is something that you can ask your blonding clients when they come in this spring. Hey, you want to be a syrup blonde? Tell me, that won't get their attention. Anyway, I hope your spring is very productive behind the chair. I hope you have a ton of blondes coming in. I hope you can mix it up. Give them what they're looking for highlights and balayage and all over platinum. You do the thing.
Speaker 1:
Being a blonding specialist, if you can specialize in blondes, people are looking for that and keeping their hair healthy and the integrity of their hair so they can look like a million bucks. That's what you want. That's what they want. Anyway, have a terrific week and I will talk to you next week. Thank you for tuning in to today's episode of All About Hair. Don't forget to subscribe to stay updated on future episodes and to continue your journey with us. If you have any questions, feedback or topics you'd like us to cover, feel free to reach out. You can find us on Instagram or our website at denisekylitzcom. Until next time, remember when you know better, you do better.