How I Grow
Gardening chats.
How I Grow
The Joys of Homegrown Peas
Dive into the straightforward yet rewarding world of growing peas. This guide uncovers the practical aspects and benefits of adding peas to your garden. We'll talk about the basics of Pisum sativum, a versatile plant that offers both sweet and starchy flavors, depending on when you pick it. We're looking into different pea types, from traditional garden peas to the crunchier sugar snaps, and why they're great for cooking.
I'll walk you through the steps of growing peas, starting from preparing the soil to supporting their growth. You'll learn how to enjoy the freshest peas right from your garden.
We'll also cover how to save seeds for next year's planting, ensuring a continuous supply. The guide includes tips on selecting the right containers, avoiding overcrowding, and using trellises effectively.
'How I Grow' is produced by The Seed Collection Pty Ltd.
Find out more about us here: www.theseedcollection.com.au
You're listening to how I Grow with the Seed Collection, and today I'll be talking about peas, the sweetest veggie of all. There are few people who don't appreciate the humble pea. Even children, who normally need cauduline to eat their greens, will often strategically ignore this veggie's colour, won over by the pea's innate sweetness. But if you've never tasted homegrown peas before, you've probably not realised just how sweet and tasty this legume really is. The natural sugars found in peas start turning into starches the instant the pods are picked. So, for ultimate sweetness in the kitchen, instant the pods are picked. So for ultimate sweetness in the kitchen, minutes matter. Growing your own is the only way to eat reliably fresh peas, and luckily it's not that difficult.
Speaker 1:Peas have the botanical name Pissum sativum and are a herbaceous annual from the family Fabacea. They're classed as legumes and are close relatives of both beans and pulses. Year. They're classed as legumes and are close relatives of both beans and pulses. Their ultimate origin is unknown, although they've been grown in Europe since prehistory and are now firmly established in agriculture worldwide. Modern varieties of pea normally grow as a climber, sending out vines up to 1.5 to 1.8 meters in height, although dwarf or bush varieties are also available, reaching around a metre or less. As they grow, the vines produce spidery tendrils which curl around the nearest support they can find. After a month or two, the plants produce small white flowers which, after pollination, grow into the seed-producing pods, with the most familiar garden peas, also known as shelling peas. The pods will grow up to 10 centimetres in length, with each pod containing 5 to 10 peas. However, selective breeding over the centuries means that shelling peas are no longer the only option. Snow peas produce flat, juicy pods with tiny seeds, and the whole pod is eaten. Sugar snap peas are somewhere in between snow peas and shelling ones, producing thickish crunchy pods with small tender peas inside.
Speaker 1:There's also a wonderful nutritional value to peas. They don't often get the recognition they deserve for their nutritional value and are rarely grouped into the trendy superfood categories. However, they are one of the most nutritious crops to grow in your veggie patch. They're full of vitamins A, c, b-complex and K, making them a natural multivitamin in a convenient and tasty package. They're also rich in a wide range of essential minerals, including calcium, iron, copper, manganese and zinc. As they're high in protein but low in fat, they make a great addition to a weight control diet, especially given their generous levels of insoluble fiber, which improves digestion for a more balanced blood sugar level. It improves digestion for a more balanced blood sugar level and as an ingredient, the pea's versatility is almost unrivaled.
Speaker 1:From germination onward, many parts of the pea plant are edible and pack a huge amount of flavour. The young tender shoots can be used as a garnish or salad ingredient, giving a hint of pure pea sweetness along with a certain amount of chefy flair. As the pea plants grow, the side shoots and growing tips can be pinched out to help maintain the plant's shape and size. The delicious pinched out shoots are highly valued in Japanese cuisine, where they're known as green gold. And of course, with garden or shelling varieties, the peas can be lightly boiled as an accompanying vegetable or slowly braised as the basis of a main dish. While young peas are tender and sweet, the older specimens can be mealy. But even peas past their best have a place in the kitchen, crushed or pureed and made into rissoles, soups or dips. But it's not only the familiar pea seeds which have a role. Younger shelling pea pods can be treated like snow peas or sugar snaps, eaten raw or used in stir-fries and other quickly cooked dishes. As the pods age they become unpalatably stringy but can still lend their flavor to veggie stocks or be blended with cream into a hearty soup.
Speaker 1:So how do we grow peas? For a quick fix of pea flavour, sow a few well-soaked peas, if available sprouting peas are best in a tray of compost and place on a sunny windowsill, watering daily to keep the soil moist. In two to three weeks the seedling should be 8-10cm tall and can be cut for immediate use. This can be done all year round. For a true crop of peas, choose a well-drained location which isn't too exposed to wind. While peas prefer full sun, they also thrive best in cooler temperatures, so in hotter climates a little midday or afternoon shade can be really beneficial.
Speaker 1:Before sowing, dig plenty of organic compost into the soil to a depth of around 30 centimetres. This will feed the long tap roots, but be aware of adding manure, which can boost foliage growth at the expense of pods and peas. Seeds can be sown direct from spring onward, with new sowings every fortnight for a longer harvest. In areas without harsh winters, a late autumn or early winter sowing can overwinter to provide a harvest in mid-spring. To start seedlings off under cover, grow them in root trainers or empty cardboard tubes to prevent root damage when transplanting and then move to their final location when the seedlings are around 10 to 15 centimetres high.
Speaker 1:When the seedlings are around 10 to 15 centimetres high, the final spacing will depend on the variety you're growing, although for non-dwarfing plants, aim for at least 10 centimetres apart, with 75 centimetres between rows, all peas will require some degree of support. Traditionally, twiggy branches were used as they provide plenty of hooks and outgrowths for the pea tendrils to wrap around. However, a thin trellis or sturdy netting is equally suitable. Dwarf or bush varieties can be self-supporting when grown in groups, but placing a few short twigs among their numbers will provide a supporting foundation for them to build on. Once the peas have germinated, water well and regularly being careful not to splash the foliage too much. In good soils, feeding isn't essential, although a general purpose vegetable and herb feed can be used occasionally once flowering has begun.
Speaker 1:Next is how to harvest your peas. Depending on the variety and growing conditions, peas will be ready to harvest roughly 10-16 weeks after they germinated. Picking young pods regularly will encourage future growth and lengthen the harvest, while the longer you leave the pods on the plant, the larger and mealier the peas will become. Once picked, shell the peas and use them as quickly as possible. If you can't use them with an hour or two, keep them very cool to preserve their sweetness or freeze them for future use.
Speaker 1:There are also some common pea pests, diseases and other problems that you should look out for, and although peas are relatively resilient given good growing conditions, these are some things that can still crop up. The seeds are incredibly attractive to both mice and birds, which can mean your peas become a meal for them even before germination. Starting seedlings under cover will help, or fit secure netting over seed beds for outdoor sowings. Slugs and snails are another danger. Sowing under cover gives seedlings some protection at their most vulnerable stage, while your favourite organic snail protection method should be used as the plants grow. There's also pea and bean weevils, which can feed on the growing plant's foliage, creating small notches on the edge of younger leaves. However, this is mainly a cosmetic issue, rarely causing enough damage to impact the plant's growth.
Speaker 1:One of the more serious pests is the pea moth caterpillar. This pest burrows inside the pods and empties them from the inside, leading to disappointment when you split open the pod. The best way to handle these pests is to time your harvests away from high summer, which is when the caterpillars are at their hungriest. Pea root can also devastate young seedlings and put mature plants under extreme stress. This is caused by a fungal infection in the soil, and the only way to treat it is to apply plenty of nitrogen-rich fertiliser in the hope that the plant's growth will outpace the effect of the fungus. However, this will tend to reduce yields considerably. Another is powdery mildew. This can be a problem leading to dusty white leaves, reduced cropping and even plant death in extreme cases. To reduce the severity, ensure the plants have good air circulation and carefully water the soil rather than the plant itself.
Speaker 1:Nearly all vegetables taste better homegrown than store-bought, but the difference with peas is so profound it's a veggie that every gardener should try growing at least once. Next, I'd like to go over some of the more common questions we hear about peas. What companion plants go with peas? There are many companion plants that will pair well with your peas, and spinach is one of them. It is a cold, hardy plant that grows in spring or autumn alongside peas. Growing peas and spinach together is a smart way to fit more plants into your garden, since vertical growing peas won't compete with spinach for space, while spinach leaves, shelter the soil and prevent weeds. Another is basil. Basil is a delicious herb that's used to make pesto, but it's also a fantastic companion plant for natural pest control. When planted around the base of pea plants, basil can repel thrips, one of the most common pea pests, and in return, pea plants provide basil with extra shade and protect the herb's sensitive leaves from sun scald. Then there's the three sisters. This is one of the most famous companion plant pairings. In this planting method, corn, squash and pole beans are grown together to benefit each other, but you can swap out the pole beans for peas and get the same basic effect when growing corn and peas together. Peas provide nitrogen to heavy feeding corn, while sturdy corn stalks act as a natural trellis for climbing peas. Really is a win-win.
Speaker 1:How do I save pea seeds for future planting? Saving pea seeds is a straightforward process and here's a step-by-step guide. First, you'll need to select your pea pods. Choose healthy, mature pea pods from your strongest and healthiest plants. Allow these pods to fully mature on the plant until they begin to turn brown and dry out. This indicates that the peas inside have reached full maturity and are ready for seed saving.
Speaker 1:Carefully harvest the mature pea pods from the plants. Use scissors or pruning shears to avoid damaging the plant. Remove the pods before they start to split open naturally. Then you'll need to dry them. Lay out the harvested pea pods in a single layer on a tray or a screen in a well-ventilated and dry area. Avoid direct sunlight, as it can degrade the seeds. Allow the pods to air dry for several weeks until they are completely dry and brittle. This ensures that the seeds inside are thoroughly dry and will not rot during storage.
Speaker 1:Once the pods are fully dry, open them up and remove the peas inside. You can do this by gently breaking open the pod with your fingertips or using a small knife, but be careful not to damage the seeds inside. After extracting them, separate them from any remaining pod debris or chaff. You can do this by gently rubbing the seeds between your fingers or by winnowing them outdoors on a breezy day. Use a sieve or a fine mesh screen to remove smaller debris. You'll also need to carefully label and store the seeds.
Speaker 1:Place the cleaned pea seeds in labelled envelopes or small containers. Be sure to label them with the variety and the date of harvesting. Store the seeds in a cool, dry place, away from moisture and sunlight. A sealed glass jar or an airtight container works well for long-term storage. You should also test the seeds' viability Before planting the saved seeds in the next growing season. It's a really good idea to perform a germination test. This ensures the seeds are viable. To do this, place a few seeds on a damp paper towel or in a small container with damp soil and observe if they sprout within a few days. If a high percentage of seeds germinate, they are likely viable and can be planted. By following these steps, you can successfully save pea seeds from your harvest for future planting seasons, ensuring a continuous supply of healthy and delicious pea plants in your garden.
Speaker 1:How much space do peas need in a pot? The space required for growing peas in a pot depends on the variety of peas you're planting and the size of the pot, but here are some general guidelines. Compact plants like dwarf or bush varieties typically require less space compared to the climbing varieties. A pot with a diameter of 8 to 12 inches and a depth of at least 10 inches 25 or so centimetres should be sufficient for growing dwarf or bush pea varieties. You can plant multiple seeds in the one pot, spacing them about 2 to 3 inches, 5 to 7.5 centimetres apart. With the climbing pea varieties. They'll need more vertical space for their vines to grow and produce pods. A large pot or a container with a diameter of at least 18 inches 45 centimetres and a depth of 12 inches around 30 centimetres is recommended for climbing peas. You'll also need to provide a trellis or support structure for the pea vines to climb. Plant the seeds along the base of the trellis, spacing them about two to three inches, around five to seven centimetres apart.
Speaker 1:Regardless of the variety, it's essential to ensure that the pot has adequate drainage holes to prevent waterlogging. Peas don't tolerate waterlogged soil very well. Additionally, choose a potting mix that is well draining and rich in organic matter to support healthy pea growth. If you're growing multiple pea plants in the same pot, be mindful of overcrowding, as this can lead to competition for nutrients and reduced air circulation, which may increase the risk of disease. Thinning the seedlings as they grow to maintain proper spacing can help promote healthier plants and better yields.
Speaker 1:If you have any questions or would like to discuss this topic or any other gardening topic, then please connect with us and many other garden enthusiasts in our group on Facebook, the Seed Collection Community. You've been listening to how I Grow, produced by the Seed Collection in Melbourne, australia. It is our aim to make gardening more accessible to more people, and this podcast is one of the many ways we're doing that. If you don't already know who we are, jump online and visit wwwtheseedcollectioncomau. You'll find a treasure trove of gardening information, as well as a huge range of seeds and garden supplies and accessories. That address, again, is wwwtheseedcollectioncomau. Thanks for listening.