The E Word

Why Can't We Unravel the Strands of Hair Equity and Expression in the Black Community?

• Karen McFarlane and Brittany S. Hale

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Every strand tells a story, and in our latest episode, we weave through the complex tapestry of hair's role in equity and self-expression. I open up about the personal hurdles I've faced sporting dreads and dyed hair in professional spheres, while we also unravel the historical battles for acceptance that many like Daryl George have endured. This isn't just talking about hair grooming  – it's a deep-rooted discussion about societal norms, where we spotlight the need for an inclusive reimagining of workplace and societal perspectives on hair.

We then pay tribute to the powerful legacy of Black women's hair, a resilient emblem of identity through the centuries. From the oppressive tignon laws to Madam C.J. Walker's pioneering beauty empire, we celebrate the artistry and resistance sewn into every braid, twist, and coil. Icons like Issa Rae and Tina Turner serve as our muses, illustrating hair's role in empowerment and cultural pride. By sharing how to genuinely support others' hair journeys and debunking myths with grace, we champion a future where every hair texture and style is not merely tolerated but embraced with open admiration.

Continuing Education

  1. The Person Beneath the Hair: Hair Discrimination, Health, and Well-Being (National Library of Medicine)
  2. Is Hair Discrimination Race Discrimination? (American Bar Association)
  3. The CROWN Act hasn’t ended hair discrimination in Texas (Brookings)
  4. A Black student was suspended for his hairstyle. The school says it wasn’t discrimination (Associated Press)
  5. The CROWN Act
  6. How Hair Discrimination Affects Black Women at Work (HBR)
  7. Penalizing Black hair in the name of academic success is undeniably racist, unfounded, and against the law (Brookings)


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Speaker 1:

What's the E-Word?

Speaker 2:

It's the E in DEI that everyone ignores but we're here to bring it to the welcome everybody back to the e-word e-word yes, we're getting this down.

Speaker 1:

I'm proud of us. I like it.

Speaker 2:

I like it. Put it along right. Yes, well, the topic for today is about hair. Ooh, ooh, can you talk about hair? When it comes to equity, you know?

Speaker 1:

I cannot believe we've not talked about hair, especially as you know, um, the both of us have made, I guess what people would say in corporate, non-traditional hair choices uh-huh, uh-huh, right, exactly, exactly. So. So I am, I'm really excited for us to talk about hair. Can you uh, you want to kick us off? I'm okay, I like your hair. By the way, I like the side pony oh, you like the side pony.

Speaker 2:

Yeah, thank you for people who don't see us right, yeah, I have dreads, which was part of my own hair journey, because I actually really wanted dreads for a really, really, really, really long time. Ok, I wasn't sure I was going to look in them or whatever, but the main reason I didn't do it was two reasons. One was I need to be sure, because you know you can't go back, right. So there's that. But the other huge reason was was it going to be professional Right In the workplace? Was that going to hold me back? What was that going to look like? Because traditionally, our hair, as black people, was not viewed as professional, and I'm a little older and so I was doing all the things with my hair, you know.

Speaker 1:

But not that we shouldn't do all the things, it's just that I really, really wanted dreads and I thought yeah, yes, and, and for those who can't see me, uh, I went natural, um, I would say, in college, and that was really kind of the moment where everyone was like, oh, this is a thing, uh, but I also made the decision to wear.

Speaker 1:

You know, my hair is yellow right or commonly commonly understood as blonde right and and I am a highly melanated woman and so that is a non-traditional choice, especially in the legal field. And I, you know, sometimes I wear it curly, sometimes I wear it straight, but it's usually always a yellow color. And I made that decision because I had yellow undertones and I said, well, brown and yellow are complementary colors and that's what I'm going to do. So, yeah, it looks fabulous. Okay, because I had yellow undertones and I said, well, brown and yellow are complementary colors and that's what I'm gonna do.

Speaker 2:

So, uh, okay, thank you, fabulous. But you know there's a thank you, there's a tribe, and I wish I remember what it was. I'd have to try and go.

Speaker 1:

I know who you're talking about, right? Yeah, yeah, right. It's like they are naturally blonde so it's not.

Speaker 2:

And non-traditional right, and that's true.

Speaker 1:

I have blonde people in my family, I have to say okay there we go, you know, you know, so, um, yes, so, once you know, we both made stylistic choices that we felt kind of aligned with, with who we are, but also had to do something that I don't think many people do, which is to wonder how it was going to impact our ability to earn and advance in our careers. You know, and and typically for for women and women identifying people, you know some you may be listening and thinking, oh, should I get bangs or I just got out of this relationship, I'm gonna cut my hair, right, I need, I need a drastic change. But very often people who are not women of color, especially black women, right, who have kinky, coily, curly hair, um, that is that way, just by the nature it grows of the way it grows out of our scalp.

Speaker 2:

Right.

Speaker 1:

Hair has been an issue for us quite literally for centuries, and quite literally for centuries there have been laws about the way that black women can wear their hair in the united states. It's insane, black people. But more specifically, black women.

Speaker 2:

It's insane, and some of that I mean there's been laws, but that's also in also in some right. So you know, obviously the more Black people embrace their natural hair right, the more we see that these laws or these unspoken rules need to change right. But they're not, unfortunately, they're not changing fast enough. So, like we have a really recent example now of a black teenage boy. His name is Daryl George, he goes to Barbers Hill High School in Texas and I hope a lot of people are following this story. But he basically got in trouble because he has dreads and apparently that is in violation of the school code. Specifically, if I understand this correctly, it's about the length, right, and he got in trouble like days after the crown act, which is a law apparently necessary, okay, to force it to help people, you know, people of color just wear their natural hair out their head and not be like discriminated against or retaliated against or um, or punished in any way. But he was in violation of the school's code.

Speaker 2:

And I just want to just from this article that I'm reading on NPR. They cite multiple infractions of campus and classroom rules, including disruption of the in-school suspension, classroom failure to comply with directives from staff and administration, violation of tardy policy and violation of dress and grooming policy. Right, and these are all because he's just refusing not to cut off his dreads, which, by the way, he's not wearing hanging like like I am right now. You know, he has it all tied up, right, it's? It's not. It's, it's not, um, it's not violating the school's length. As a matter of fact, it's short, by the way. He has it all tied up and it's part of who he is and it's his hair, and apparently it's a violation.

Speaker 2:

Yeah, and now he's being sent to an alternative school because that he, because of his hair because of his hair and probably all these other made-up things, okay that they've added, because he's refusing to cut his hair or change his hairstyle and so my brain is firing off so many questions.

Speaker 1:

but I would want to know, you know, are there other boys who have long hair? Right, because we, you know, you look at the prototypical of 80s rock star, right, like you had hair trends come and go yeah, right, we had the, the Bieber cut, oh yeah, yeah. But then my question is for, for the young men and male identifying students who may want to wear their hair long. The question is well, what is the harm, right? What is the harm to to others in the way that they choose to express themselves?

Speaker 1:

And you mentioned the Crown Act that was only passed in June of 2023, which prohibits discrimination based on hair texture, which ostensibly there seems to be an issue, and, for those who are unfamiliar with dreads or locks or dreadlocks, what it is is twisting curly, coily hair onto itself right and allowing it to lock, and it continues to grow Right and very often grows faster. In this, in this, I can attest yes and um. What I didn't hear you say was that there were any complaints about grooming or lice or anything that could be a public health concern I mean there's his.

Speaker 2:

If people look online and you look up daryl george or just, you know this article, texas students suspended for his hairstyle is shifted to. I think it looks good, it looks fabulous. I'm like how can I do that? Okay, like, first of all, if he's doing that himself, I gotta go to the hairdresser to get my hair done. Still right, I still know how to take care of my own listen yes, yes, and so so I wanted to.

Speaker 1:

Can I just give like a quick historical kind of context to what we're dealing with, please? So we, we talked about, you know, for hundreds of years, america, the colonies that would then become the United States of America. There have been strong reactions to Black women specifically, and the way that they were worn their hair, and then I'd like for you to just kind of give some context as to why that might be. If we can just go on a journey through the past, um, so I'll just I'll set the stage for you and then I'll just yeah, so, um, let's say 1763, we are in the louisiana colony spanish have taken it over.

Speaker 1:

There's a community of free black people who lived and worked in the territory, these free Black people in Louisiana, again, they weren't under control of the laws that govern slavery, because they were free people.

Speaker 1:

However, they were denied the rights and privileges that came with being what we know now as being white, right, so they were not considered citizens, spanish citizens, or anything like that, and so there was a particular concern about Black women being considered beautiful or attractive and a growing concern about, again, what we would now consider white, white men being attracted to them, right. So much so that in and this comes from newyorkhistoryorg and talks about settler colonialism and fashionable rebellion. So much so that, in 1786, the governor of Louisiana proclaimed that all free black women must wear what's called a tignon, also known as a ch, to make them different from free white women. And these tignons were headscarves, and they were worn typically by enslaved women to keep their hair up while they worked. Right, and so free Black women. There was a law passed that free black women, too, had to keep their hair up with these hair scarves. Um, because their hair, ironically, was considered, you know, a an attractive, attractive feature. Yeah, curious to know what your response is.

Speaker 2:

I mean yes, um, it is really interesting that that shift has happened, right, we were once thought of as beautiful, attractive, our hair was exotic or unique, different, whatever the different terms were. And so, in order to for for men to, I guess, act appropriately, women, black women, had to hide themselves, right, which is the start of saying hey, I'm sure they didn't say hey, your hair was so beautiful, okay, that you must, you must cover it up, but instead, you know some little reverse psychology thing your hair is just unattractive, you need to keep it covered, and um, that's the start of, in some ways, like self-loathing, you know. However, you know what black women do is leverage their creativity right, and they took that opportunity, use those scarves to adorn themselves in different ways and create a different type of fashion sense as a yes, zhuzh it up, you know a few, a few jeweled head pins and different colors and prints and all of the things, um, the.

Speaker 1:

The thing I I'll say about I love most about being a black woman is the way that we are able to innovate and and be creative with our expression of ourselves through our appearance, yep. And so, seeing that it, you know was was a an act that intended to be punitive and to create really kind of a subclass, yep, and prevent miscegenation, right, prevent, um, because then what, what happens? How do you, how do you acknowledge the humanity, or how do you discern between the humanity of free black people and enslaved black people, who are seemingly inferior? Well, how are they inferior if white men are marrying free black women and creating, you know, mixed-race children? And then, well, where do, where do they stand?

Speaker 2:

Are they free Are?

Speaker 1:

they slaves. This is the problem, the problem no one wanted to deal with, and so, therefore, we have these laws passed on pretext.

Speaker 2:

Which also adds the classism to that classism and colorism just kind of embedded all into that, right, because then you have different hair textures that are deemed better, or the good hair versus bad hair, right. So the straighter or curlier it was, the better quality. Better quality it was considered versus the traditional tight, kinky coils which is pervading this day?

Speaker 1:

well, well, yeah, because, uh, when it comes to to beauty, beauty there's big bucks in beauty, right. The first black woman to become a millionaire became so because of her ability, madam CJ Walker, for those of you who didn't know because of her ability to create opportunities for Black women to better align themselves with Eurocentric ideals of beauty, which involved straight hair, right. So if you can use heat to straighten your curls and become more palatable to the ruling social economic class, then all the better, absolutely.

Speaker 2:

And just a little footnote, I'm really bummed. Madam CJ Walker's mansion is really, or was not, far from me, but I wanted to go do a tour, but it was closed or something was going on with it. And a friend of mine, though, knew her granddaughter and was going to try and get us in, but that hasn't happened yet. I might have to remind her. This is a couple of years.

Speaker 1:

This is your moment. Yes, this is the reminder. Add a plus one I want to come.

Speaker 2:

It's in Tarrytown, new York, which is not too far from me, so awesome, so that would have been an amazing moment to walk through history.

Speaker 2:

But, yeah, and for so long too, you know, um, the business of black hair has been incredibly lucrative. Okay, right, because, but in a sad way too, because it was really focused, like you said, on your being more Eurocentric, straightening our hair, you know, you know all sorts of ways that we wanted to get that particular look, you know, and the thing about, I think, more so today we have more people embracing their natural hair, but leveraging all different types of ways to wear it Right, and that's their choice. As long as you're not wear it right, and that's their choice. As long as you're not, for me, as long as you're not, um, trying to like, you're not embarrassed about what's naturally growing out of your head, right, um, you're making choices to zhuzh it up, like we do, right, that's what we do. Hey, like, I like to say black. You know, black people put seasoning on everything, all right, and that's what we do. We season up everything that we touch.

Speaker 1:

And you I love the point because there's that, the line between adornment and creativity and pathology. And where does it fall to say, hey, you know, I believe that this is the standard and I will have more opportunity to do this versus, oh, this is cute, let's try it, right and that's. And then the question becomes, you know, for people listening and they're like, is it really that serious? Yes, it is because you have your ability to be accepted, even in your own communities. Right, if people perceive you, oh well, you are. You are very blatantly trying to align with or or move away from Right advancement, right, right, um, there are generational shifts in what's accepted.

Speaker 1:

Right, because oh well, you, you know this is not, this is not acceptable. Um, but to to make it fun, do you? Do you have any hair, hair spo, hair inspo? Any any famous black women who have served as inspiration for you? I have like two or three that I just think are phenomenal.

Speaker 2:

Man, famous Black women who serve as inspiration. Now I'm trying to think about everybody's hairstyles. I mean, yeah, you know, it's really like. This is I'm not going to say it's like, or I'm a little embarrassed. So the real. I watched the whole Real Housewives franchises, yes, and I watched Atlanta.

Speaker 1:

It's a matter of modern study in the socioeconomic dynamics of women. It's a. It's a feminist. And how often do we get to see women of a certain age having fun, not judging themselves?

Speaker 2:

Okay, go on please you know what. I'm going to look at it from that perspective, because sometimes it's not from that perspective, okay. But what I love to also watch is just how they change up their looks.

Speaker 1:

Yes.

Speaker 2:

With ease. They do that unapologetically you know yes whether it's a short hairstyle one day or a long flowing you know hairstyle or whatever. That to me because they feel more like everyday people, right yes I mean they're not, but they feel a little bit more every day and it's just like I love the fact that it is hair is viewed for them as an accessory.

Speaker 1:

Yes. It changed in and out, you know, and regardless of race, regardless Right, whereas typically and again there's an interesting pivot whereas, like the belief that, like weaves are only a thing that women of color do, or hair extensions when hair extensions were most prevalent in Europe and and that was was a trend and then to to embrace that, you know something, is sort of a source of shame or embarrassment or need to over explain for for black women.

Speaker 1:

But I agree with you because there's always, there's always a season, two glow up right, you see how people are in season one and they have their hair and then suddenly you know the styles, the extensions, you know they're, they're better quality. Yep, um, I, I like that answer.

Speaker 2:

I like that answer and I want to throw in isa ray. Oh, yes, I got I just. Whatever she's doing, whoever her stylist is, or if she's doing her again, if she's doing it again, if she's doing it herself, I need some lessons. All right, she uses her natural hair in such a beautiful way also, yes, and it shows how versatile you know our, I think in general, like our hair is very versatile, I think, from you know we go back to our originations, right, like adornments, hairstyles, textures. All those different things were part of who we, who we were, who we and who we continue to be.

Speaker 2:

yes, we're just remembering yes who we were a long time ago. Some of that was stripped away, um, but we've, we've, it's in our dna and it's coming through. But who are your? Who are your inspo's?

Speaker 1:

okay, so, um, so, I love a big hair moment. I love big hair, I love the volume, I love all of that. So, chaka khan, chaka is like hair inspo. Um, of course you have Diana Ross oh yes, classic. And then of course, mary J Blige, because one, yes, she also wears her hair blonde, but she's worn it in so many different ways. Sometimes it's a platinum moment, other times it's more of a honey gold, but it's a platinum moment. Other times it's more of a honey gold, but it's, it's been a staple throughout her career. Um, she's had, you know, moments where she's gone red or whatever, but more often than not, when you think of marriage, you're biased. That's what you think of, and and she's she's not leaned into, so you know, into the prototypical dumb blonde stereotype, right, she's very intentionally shown who she is and more often than not, it's like singing about something sad, but there's always a sense of triumph and and strength, and I appreciate that.

Speaker 2:

She is someone who is very feminine but also, uh, strong and also strong, not, but because you are feminine and strong, but yes, another fun fact from yesterday I was visiting my son and I were hanging out, we're talking this guy and, uh, we were in white plains, new york, and we were not far from the galleria and this guy shared with me that mary j blige was discovered in the Galleria and I was like what it's like? I did not know that or remember that, right, right, yeah, so the Galleria is going to be torn down to actually talk. That's why we're talking about it, but she was supposedly discovered there. I need to Google that and make sure it's true. But just because you mentioned Mary, I was just talking about her yesterday.

Speaker 2:

But, one person I think we should add to the list, because she has a particular hairstyle that nobody can duplicate although many have tried tina turner yes, her hair only looks fabulous on her. That's true.

Speaker 2:

Right no, wig no yeah, even like the tribute, yeah, yes right nobody it was like this like like a mullet situation happening like a blonde mullet yes, yes, and it's fabulous on it is, it is, but anyway it's so rock and roll and feminine and cool like she's. She was so cool yeah, yeah, but you cannot get a tina turner wig to work to save your life. It's just never going to happen.

Speaker 1:

Many have tried so another question for you, for anybody listening and my hope is that people are listening and they're like yes, absolutely. What do you say to the people who don't have the lived experience and want to be supportive of black women and women of color in their hair journeys, who don't want to make suppositions about black women and their hair?

Speaker 2:

one don't be touching people, black people, here. Okay, leave it alone.

Speaker 1:

Look with your eyes, not with your hands.

Speaker 2:

Feel free to say someone's hair is beautiful, okay, but you, you know, and say you know, embrace that, you know, like there's different textures, different styles, you know, and feel free to compliment it. A compliment always makes people feel good. And three, if you are in a position of any power or authority, right, be an advocate. Right, Be an ally. Right, and don't endorse any type of hair discrimination, whether it's part of the Crown Act or not. Right at um daryl george again, right, like, what he just needs is advocates to see him and his hair, see him and his hair is not as a threat. Right, because that's ridiculous. Right, it's, it's, it's the follicles that's growing out of his head, it's part of his culture. And fourth, just seek to understand. I don't I'm just going to be a little bit like throw away in this, like I don't see why you need to understand, like too much about it, why people hair. It's just it's hair. I'm not looking to understand everybody else's hair texture. Maybe that's my only question.

Speaker 2:

but if you are um, seeing someone being uh uh treated poorly because of it and it's not for a legitimate reason, like, as you mentioned earlier, poor grooming, I mean real poor grooming.

Speaker 1:

Right, Exactly Actual lice. You know if, if the person is walking around like pig pens from Charlie Brown with like a cloud of dust or dirt around them, that's what we're talking about it kind of makes this really quick point.

Speaker 2:

Quick point yes, black people don't get lice. Okay, y'all don't have to check. Like you know, in school you gotta check everybody's hair. You can just skip the black people. Okay, they used to check my son who had, like you know what is a fade. I'm like what you put right, okay, and scientifically, lice don't like black people's hair. So there's that. So stop projecting your issues on to what's happening here.

Speaker 1:

Um, yes, we are going to get a bunch of people writing in.

Speaker 2:

Well, there was this one time I hear it I mean, I'm not saying it's impossible, but numbers are low, just doesn't happen very often, yeah, but anyway, we could talk about hair all day we can, and we'll probably have another episode about it because it's complex.

Speaker 1:

It totally is. I'm going to bring some numbers.

Speaker 2:

Yes, let's just keep wearing our hairstyles and putting in people's faces and that part yes, my quest to be Chaka Khan. All right, until next time. Until next time Be well, talk soon.

Speaker 1:

Bye.